🎨 Watercolor Basics for Beginners #1 — How to Choose the Right Watercolor Paper

Why paper type matters more than you think

When you’re just starting out with watercolor, it’s easy to focus on paints and brushes — but there’s something even more important that often gets overlooked: the paper.

The truth is, no matter how great your paints are, if your watercolor paper can’t hold water, absorb pigment, or stay flat while you work, it’s going to frustrate you and adversely affect your painting. That’s why this post is dedicated entirely to helping you choose the right watercolor paper for your needs — so your learning experience is smoother, more enjoyable, and more successful.

"First of all, respect your paper!"

J.M.W. Turner, renowned English watercolorist (1775-1851)

🧾 Why Watercolor Paper Matters (More Than You Think)

Watercolor is a water-based medium, and the surface you paint on changes everything — from how colors blend and layer to whether your paper buckles, pills, or creates dull, uneven washes.

In fact, a lot of beginner struggles (like colors looking muddy, paper buckling, or not being able to lift or blend pigment) are actually paper problems — not artist problems!

The good news here? Once you understand how to choose watercolor paper, it becomes much easier to control your paints and learn new techniques with confidence.

(Photo of the assortment of watercolor paper I currently have on hand)

📋 Watercolor Paper Basics: What to Look For

Let’s break it down into three key categories: weight, texture, and material.

1. Weight (How Thick It Is)

Watercolor paper is sold by weight — most often in pounds (lb) or grams per square meter (gsm). The heavier the paper, the more water it can handle.

• 90 lb / 190 gsm
  Light and budget-friendly, but warps easily with wet washes. Best for dry media or very light watercolor work.

• 140 lb / 300 gsm
  The go-to choice for beginners. Handles moderate water well and can be taped down if needed to prevent buckling.

• 300 lb / 640 gsm
  Thick and luxurious. Requires no stretching and rarely warps, even with heavy washes. Great for finished pieces, but pricey for everyday practice.

💡 Tip: If your paper buckles, try taping it down on a board or using a watercolor block.

2. Texture (The Paper’s Surface)

Watercolor paper comes in three main textures, or finishes. Each offers a different painting experience.

• Cold Press (also referred to as "NOT," meaning not hot-pressed)
  Cold-press paper is pressed through felt-covered rollers at cold temperatures. Slightly textured — like the feel of an eggshell. This is the most popular option for beginners. It's versatile, absorbs water well, and allows for both smooth washes and fine brush detail.

• Hot Press
  Hot-press paper is pressed through heated rollers at high pressure, giving them a smooth finish. Best for precise detail, line work, or combining watercolor with ink or pen. Because it’s less absorbent and a bit slippery, it can be trickier to control water flow.

• Rough
  Rough paper comes right off the bed during the manufacturing process and dries as it is. Very textured and absorbent. Great for expressive or abstract styles, but harder to control for precise painting.

(Photo of hot-pressed watercolor paper on top of taped-down cold-pressed watercolor paper)

💡 Try a sample pack that includes all three textures to see what suits your style. Most paper manufacturers produce booklets containing small samples of their ranges. These inexpensive sample sets are a great way to try out paper types and manufacturers.

(Photo of Fabriano test pack of watercolor paper I recently picked up)

(Close-up photo of Fabriano test pack's 7 sheets of watercolor paper - notice the difference in textures and color!)

3. Material (What It’s Made Of)

This is where beginners often get tripped up. Not all watercolor paper is created equal.

• 100% Cotton (Rag Paper)
  Professional-grade (or artist grade) paper. It’s durable, absorbent, and lets you layer, lift, and rework with minimal damage. Worth the investment for final work and for learning how watercolor behaves on quality paper.

• Cellulose (Wood Pulp)
  Student-grade paper. Affordable and widely available. Great for practice, but less forgiving — colors may dry dull, and lifting or blending can be more difficult.

💡 Want the best of both worlds? Use cellulose paper or papers with a blend of cotton and cellulose fibers for warm-ups and cotton paper for paintings you want to keep, sell or gift.

📏 Formats: Pads, Blocks, Sheets, and Sketchbooks

Watercolor paper is available in several formats. Here’s how to choose what’s right for your workflow:

• Pads
  Most common format for beginners. Usually spiral-bound or glued at one edge. Easy to tear out and use.

• Blocks
  Gummed on two or more sides, so the paper stays flat as you paint. Great for final artwork — just slip a palette knife under the top sheet when dry to remove it. More expensive than loose sheets, some find blocks convenient and time-saving.

• Loose Sheets
  Sold individually or in large packs. Often higher-quality cotton paper. You can cut them down to the size you need.

• Sketchbooks
  Perfect for everyday practice. Look for ones labeled “watercolor” with at least 140 lb paper. Quality varies, so read reviews before buying.

💡 My personal routine? I keep a sketchbook for daily play, a pad for studies, and save my cotton sheets for finished work.

(Photo of Arches 100% cotton watercolor block)

(Photo of Arches 100% cotton watercolor block, displaying ungummed area of block)

✨ Specialty Watercolor Papers

And, just for fun, let’s explore two more-advanced options: handmade and colored watercolor paper.

💡 Tip: In my second year of painting with watercolors I was gifted with some gorgeous handmade and tinted watercolor paper. Ever since, when family or friends ask me for gift ideas, I always mention "oh, a few sheets of handmade watercolor would be such a treat; I never buy it for myself!"

A. Handmade Watercolor Paper

• Texture & Appearance: Handmade paper has irregular textures and beautiful deckled edges. Each sheet is unique.

• Material: Often 100% cotton, but tends to be more absorbent and unpredictable.

• Best For: Loose, expressive, or abstract work; giftable art or personal projects.

✅ Pros: Gorgeous look and feel, holds up to layering, organic surface.
⚠️ Cons: More expensive, harder to find consistent results.

💡 Tip: Try handmade paper once you’ve practiced your techniques — you’ll appreciate its quirks more.

B. Colored Watercolor Paper

• What It Is: Watercolor paper tinted with soft shades like gray, tan, or even black.

• Creative Use: Allows you to paint with highlights instead of shadows, especially with gouache, metallics, or white ink.

• Best For: Dramatic contrast, limited palette work, or modern mixed media.

✅ Pros: Unique effect, pushes creative thinking.
⚠️ Cons: Can alter the way colors look (especially transparent ones), so test before committing to a full piece.

💡 Tip: Keep in mind the color of the tinted paper will show through the transparent watercolor, so consider your composition and colors accordingly.

💸 Budget Tips for Beginners

• Use cellulose paper for practice, and save your 100% cotton paper for finished pieces or learning advanced techniques.

• Buy full-size sheets and cut them down to make them go farther.

• Look for student-grade pads from trusted brands like Canson or Fabriano for practice.

• Consider buying “seconds” or factory off-cuts (sometimes called “imperfect sheets”) for discounts.

• Keep a small swatch journal to test how each paper handles washes, lifting, and glazing.

🎨 What I Currently Use

• For sketching and warm-ups: Sophie's Art Supplies, Mixed Media, Hot-Pressed, Spiral-bound 5.5 x 8.5 in (140 lb, cellulose)

• For layering and controlled studies: Fabriano Watercolor 25% Cotton Cold Press (140 lb) 

• For finished work or layering practice: Arches 100% Cotton Cold Press (140 lb)

• For any projects I intend to scan: 100% Cotton Hot Press (140 lb )

• I also encourage you to try out different paper sizes. In early 2020 when I started with watercolor, I first painted on 9 x 12 in. paper. But, that size always felt over-large to me. I downsized to 7 x 5 inch paper, which worked so much better for me. About 18 months ago though, I found my sweet spot — these days my favorite paper size is 6 x 4 inches.

🖌️ Final Thoughts

Choosing the right watercolor paper is one of the most important things you can do as a beginner. It affects your learning curve, your ability to use techniques properly, and the final look of your art.

You don’t need the most expensive paper to start — you just need the right paper for your projects and your painting style.

Experiment. Compare. And most of all — have fun with it :)

🎨 References

• Artist's Manual: A Complete Guide to Painting and Drawing Materials and Techniques, edited by Angela Gair (1995 HarperCollins Publishers).

• Watercolor Secrets: Over 200 Tips and Techniques for Painting the Easy Way, by Robin Berry (2012 Quarto Publishing).

• Hello Watercolor! Creative Techniques and Inspiring Projects for the Beginning Artist, by Jeannie Dickson (2020 Get Creative 6).

• The Joy of Watercolor, 40 Happy Lessons for Painting the World Around You, by Emma Block (2018 Running Press).

💬 What About You?

Have you found a watercolor paper you love? What kind of paper has given you trouble in the past? Share in the comments — I’d love to hear your experiences.

🔗 Related Posts

• Watercolor Basics #2 – How to Choose the Right Watercolor Brushes

• Watercolor Basics #3 – How to Choose the Right Watercolor Paints

• Watercolor Basics #4 – Easy Color Mixing & Pigment Guide

✨ About the Author

Written by Mary Moreno of Mary Moreno Studio, self-taught watercolor enthusiast since 2020 and creative blogger sharing practical, beginner-friendly tips and tutorials.